Trouble in Eden


Only way to feel the noise is when it’s good and loud
So good I can’t believe it, screamin’ with the crowd

– I. Kilmister, E. Clarke, P. Taylor


It feels incredibly peaceful sat on top of Hounds Tor in the beautiful Dartmoor national park. The sky is blue, wispy white clouds float by and the hot sun beats down on us. We can see Haytor Rocks far off in the distance and the van is parked somewhere on the other side of them.

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The granite tors at Haytor are ruggedly spectacular and had been busy and noisy with school groups and tour buses, but like many places it only takes a few minutes walk away from the car park for a bustling metropolis to become an oasis of calm.

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We’d wandered here via some old quarry workings and gotten lost in midge infested woodland before finding a bridge across the river. We stopped for lunch among the ruins of ancient buildings, relics of a simpler time. Cows and ponies roamed the landscape. It was incredibly peaceful.

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Our walk back was simpler, or at least the bridge across the river we were looking for was easier to find. We stopped to admire the dry stone walling, a completely different style to what we are used to seeing in areas like the Lake District or Snowdonia, much more haphazard, seemingly defying gravity in places.

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While wildcamping in a tent is fine on much of Dartmoor, wildcamping in a van is banned according to the signs in all the car parks and so we headed out of the park to find somewhere to park up for the night and shops to buy some food for dinner. We settled by an arboretum which seemed peaceful enough until the local running club arrived for a race, soon followed by a wilderness survival experience group. Peace returned a couple of hours later.

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We woke to heavy rain falling from the sky. Some days are sun days, some days are roof days. Today was a roof day and we headed for Buckland Abbey, once home to Sir Francis Drake and now home to a Rembrandt self portrait. Knowing nothing about art we’ll just have to take their word for it that it’s worth a cool thirty million. The process of identification was interesting though, as was the house itself.

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As the day drew on the rain subsided and the sky cleared. We drove around for a bit before looking for a spot for the night.

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We settled in an old quarry with a view over the rolling countryside. The quarry itself was a SSSI, apparently showing granite and slate coming together and probably quite interesting to a geologist, but we just liked the view. Sadly, many day trippers and party goers had treated the place like a tip. We did a big litter pick, filling our old rucksack bin with cans and assorted rubbish. As darkness fell, bats emerged, swooping this way and that, squeeking and chasing insects.

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Lydford Gorge is advertised as the south west’s deepest gorge. It’s an easy but spectacular walk which takes us through vibrant green woodland that feels almost jurassic and down to the White Lady waterfall. Further along the route is the Devils Cauldron, a swirling frenzy of water crashing through the rocks.

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After three nights in the wild it was time to find a campsite. We crossed the border into Cornwall and checked into the Innis Inn campsite, the only one in the area we’d been able to find a space in. Around the site BBQs were burning and music was playing. It was odd to be back in civilisation again, but was nice to have hot running water. The reason that campsite spaces in the area had been sparse was the very reason why we were here.

Before a moonbase like backdrop, the crowd goes wild as Lemmy, Phil and Mikkey take to the stage. This whole trip has been about this, to experience the patriarchs of rock play a gig in the unlikeliest of locations, the beautiful Eden Project.

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We’re Motörhead and we play rock and roll“, growls Lemmy into the microphone, head thrown back in that distinctive pose of his.  And play rock and roll they did.  It took a while for the atmosphere to build, it was too light and too early really, but by they time they hit perennial favourites Ace of Spades and Overkill the crowd were buzzing. Back at the campsite the music continued, probably to the annoyance of the few campers not there for the concert.

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A ticket to the Eden Sessions also includes a days entry to the project itself, so we spent Sunday winding down among the flowers and trees. It’s not our first visit, but they’ve introduced the high level walkway through the rain forest dome since we were last here which gives a lovely birds eye view of the trees and plants.

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We don’t often revisit campsites, but the National Trust’s site at Highertown is an exception. It’s the very definition of peaceful. In reality it’s little more than a sloping field and some very basic facilities. It’s located down miles of country lane and from the top of the site you can see the sea. Swallows dart around the field catching insects and sheep bleat to each other in the next field. Checking in is easy. Put your money in an envelope and put it in the postbox by the gate. Trust, what a wonderful thing.

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From the campsite the quiet stoney beach is just a short walk away, along a dirt track that also leads onto the south west coastal path. Although it’s late June there’s still some Ransomes around, so we pick some of the healthier looking leaves. Elderflower trees can also be found along the way, so we pick some flowers from each tree to make a a drink from.

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With the fridge filled with nature’s offerings it was time to return home, after a trip that had been peaceful, but not too peaceful…


But that’s the way I like it baby
I don’t wanna live for ever

– I. Kilmister, E. Clarke, P. Taylor


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6 thoughts on “Trouble in Eden

  1. Great to see Betty back on form and taking you out and about again after your recent problems. Quite a contrast between Dartmoor, Lydford Gorge and Lemmie! I’m envious of all three.
    We had a wing mirror knocked off in Cornwall in June – done by a deer which visited the campsite during the night. Site owner was definitely not happy, as it was the second time it had happened and he had to go and find where it had got the through the fence, then repair it. Now waiting delivery of a new mirror as the broken one was eventually found to be not repairable. Hope the sticky tape lasts out until it arrives.
    Cheers!
    Geoff

    • We’re adding a few miles now, about 2k since we got back on the road at the end of May 🙂

      I bet that made a bang when the deer took that off. Nothing like having parts of your van taped on for that vintage look!

  2. Hi!

    I came across your blog about your VW project and love the work you’re doing with Betty Bus! I’m working with VW Heritage who provide VW parts, spares, and accessories for such projects and wondered if you would be interested in writing a review of one of their products. If you let us know what you need, I’ll find out if they can supply it. You can check out the site at https://www.vwheritage.com/ if you’d like to have a look first!

    Looking forward to hearing from you.Message me back on here, or email me at Ashley at weareallconnected.co.uk.

    Best wishes,

    Ashley

  3. Ha! Well that may be a bit much, but you never know 😉 Did you ever send an email over? I can’t seem to find one in my (very full) inbox, but if you haven’t sent one just yet I’ll keep an eye out!

    Ashley

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